A common question we get from customers is: “My garden did not do very well last year. It did great the year before, but this year it did not do as well. Any idea why that is?”
The truth is that there is not one single reason why a garden has poor production and is under-performing, but several reasons. And not all gardens have the same factors adversely affecting that under-performance. We have identified 10 factors why gardens are not producing up to expectations. Whether you have an existing garden or a brand new garden, these factors are something that all gardeners need to be aware of and get in the way of if they want to best results from their gardening efforts. Starting with Factor #10, here’s a detailed count down to the #1 reason why gardens suffer from poor production and under-performance.
FACTOR #10: Climate and Weather Conditions![]()
Extreme weather conditions like frost, heatwaves, or drought can stress plants and reduce their ability to produce. While some factors are outside your control, you can protect plants with coverings, mulch around your plants, irrigation systems, or by choosing more resilient varieties – like Roma tomatoes vs. ‘Beefsteak or Big Boy’ as these tend to struggle in hot and dry conditions often requiring regular watering and cooler temperatures to thrive.
Unlike Factor #10 – you do have more control over Factor #9 – and that is soil pH.
FACTOR #9: Improper pH Levels
Different plants thrive in different soil pH levels. If the soil is too acidic or too alkaline for your crops, they may not be able to absorb nutrients properly. Testing and adjusting the pH can lead to better results. So let’s take a quick look at what soil Ph is:
The abbreviation pH stands for “Potential of Hydrogen”. The lower the pH the higher the concentration of hydrogen ions. Soil pH is a measure of how acidic or alkaline the soil is, on a scale of 0 to 14. A pH value of 7 is considered neutral, values below 7 indicate acidity, and values above 7 indicate alkalinity. Soil pH affects nutrient availability, microbial activity, and overall plant health. Here’s a chart to help explain pH characteristics.
Most plants thrive in slightly acidic to neutral soils (pH 5.5-7), but some plants have specific pH requirements for optimal growth. Adjusting soil pH can sometimes be necessary to improve plant growth by adding amendments to raise or to lower pH. However, the practical truth is that most garden vegetable plants will tolerate either somewhat acidic or alkaline soils in a range of 5.5 to 7.5 – as long as those levels are not much below or above that range.
Here’s a few examples of common garden vegetables that tend to prefer slightly acidic soil.
- Peppers
- Preferred pH: 5.5 – 6.5
- Peppers grow best in slightly acidic soil, which enhances flavor and reduces the risk of diseases. They also need warm conditions, but maintaining the right soil pH ensures the plants are healthy – and tasty.
- Tomatoes
- Preferred pH: 5.5 – 6.5
- While tomatoes are adaptable, they perform best in slightly acidic soil. This helps them grow strong, produce abundant fruit, and avoid common problems like blossom-end rot.
- Cucumbers
- Preferred pH: 5.5 – 6.8
- Cucumbers thrive in slightly acidic soil, which improves the overall growth and fruit production of the plants. Well-drained, slightly acidic soil supports their need for moisture.
- Lettuce
- Preferred pH: 5.5 – 6.5
- Lettuce prefers slightly acidic soil, which helps promote leafy growth. This is especially true for leafy types like Romaine, Butterhead, and Leaf lettuce.
How to Acidify Your Soil
If your soil is too alkaline – in other words the pH is too high for these vegetables, you can lower the pH by adding:
- Elemental sulfur usually found in fertilizers is not readily available to plants as it needs to be oxidized into sulfate form first. A Fast-Acting pelletized Sulphur – which is still a form of elemental sulfur will probably get you the quickest results. However, go slow! Don’t add more than about ½ lb. for every 100 square feet until you reach the desired pH range.
- Peat will lower pH over the short term. Therefore, it is necessary to continuously introduce peat into the soil to maintain acidic soil. Again, using peat to reduce pH is a short-term solution – especially desirable if you’re planning to rotate your plants from year to year. Using elemental sulfur works much better in lowering pH – and it will last longer.
- Coffee Grounds. And you may have heard about the coffee grounds option. The pH of coffee grounds however is usually around 6.5-6.8, which is considered close to neutral. So, despite popular belief, coffee grounds are not acidic enough to noticeably lower soil pH.
- And it goes without saying, but testing your soil pH before planting is crucial to ensure that it’s within the ideal range for these vegetables.
At the other end of our pH scale is alkaline or high pH soil – or soils with pH greater than 7.
Here’s a few common garden vegetables that seem to prefer a more alkaline soil:
- Asparagus
- Preferred pH: 7.0 – 8.0
- Asparagus thrives in slightly alkaline soil. The soil should be well-drained and rich in organic matter for healthy spears and long-term growth.
- Onions
- Preferred pH: 7.0 – 7.5
- Onions grow well in slightly alkaline soil, which promotes healthy bulb formation and reduces the likelihood of fungal infections.
- Garlic
- Preferred pH: 7.0 – 8.0
- Garlic thrives in alkaline soil, which helps it grow large, flavorful bulbs. A slightly alkaline pH also discourages fungal diseases like white rot.
- Beans (Pole and Bush Beans)
- Preferred pH: 7.0 – 7.5
- Beans grow well in alkaline soil. They are nitrogen-fixing plants, meaning they can improve soil fertility by converting atmospheric nitrogen into a usable form.
If your soil is too acidic – in other words the pH is too low for these vegetables, you can raise the pH by adding:
How to Raise Soil pH (Make Soil More Alkaline)
If your soil is too acidic for these vegetables, you can increase the pH by adding:
- Lime is commonly used to raise soil pH. While all lime application products work to improve soil conditions, pelletized limestone is the quickest, most consistent, and most effective solution for raising soil pH. Even better, the benefits incurred from a small particle size are maintained in pelletized lime, because the pellets break down easily.
- Wood ashes (from untreated and unpainted wood) can help increase soil alkalinity. Wood ash contains calcium carbonate, which neutralizes acidity in the soil by raising the pH level. Always test your soil pH before adding wood ash to ensure it is necessary. Use wood ash sparingly, as too much can drastically raise pH and harm plants. Avoid using ash from treated wood or painted materials.
- Bone meal is also slightly alkaline and adds phosphorus, which benefits many vegetables.
- Egg shells. Yes, egg shells can be used to raise the pH level of soil because they are primarily composed of calcium carbonate, which acts like lime and makes the soil more alkaline when added to it. Essentially, crushed eggshells can be used as a natural way to increase soil pH. Adding crushed eggshells can help prevent blossom-end rot in plants like tomatoes, which is often caused by calcium deficiency.
Regular soil testing will help you determine if adjustments are necessary to create the ideal pH for these vegetables.
So How Best to Manage the pH Situation
- Separate Planting Areas: Consider grouping plants with similar pH requirements in different garden beds or sections, each tailored to their specific needs. Having more than one Raised Garden Bed easily facilitates soils of different pH levels.
- Amend the Soil: Regularly monitor soil pH and adjust it accordingly with soil amendments such as peat or sulfur for acidity – or lime for alkalinity, keeping in mind that this may require frequent testing and modification. Again, most of your standard garden plants will do fine with soil pH’s ranging from 5.5 – 7.
- One last option is to grow acid-loving and alkaline-loving plants in pots, containers or garden bags, where you can more easily control the soil conditions in each container.
FACTOR #8: Overcrowding
Plants need space to grow. When they’re overcrowded, they compete for water, nutrients, and sunlight, which can reduce crop production. Be sure to follow recommended spacing guidelines to give each plant enough room to thrive. Those guidelines can be found on the seed packs or information cards of most garden vegetable plants.
How to Prevent or Address Overcrowding
- Space Plants Properly: Follow the recommended spacing guidelines for each plant variety. Ensure plants have enough room to grow both above and below the soil surface.
- Thin Plants: If seedlings are too dense, thin them out early by removing weaker or smaller plants. This gives the remaining plants room to grow and reduces competition.
- Use Raised Beds or Containers: Consider growing plants in raised beds, pots, containers or garden bags to help better manage spacing and prevent overcrowding in traditional garden rows.
- Prune Regularly: Regularly prune and remove dead or damaged foliage to improve airflow and prevent overcrowding within the plant itself.
- Crop Rotation: For garden beds, rotate crops each season to prevent the soil from becoming overly compacted or depleted of nutrients. A garden vegetable annual rotation schedule involves planting different vegetable families in different areas of your garden each year. This helps to improve the health of your garden and increase its yield.
Here’s How to create a rotation schedule:
- First, Identify Plant Families
Group vegetables into families based on their characteristics. For example, the cabbage family includes broccoli, cauliflower, and kale.
- Second, Plan Your Rotation
Decide which families to plant in each area of your garden each year.
- Third, Consider the needs of each family
Some families, like the
- Brassicas (bra-si-ka): vegetables that include broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, collard greens, kale, and turnips.
- Cucurbits (que – Ker -bit): Cucurbits are a family of vining plants that produce edible fruits, including cucumbers, pumpkins, squash, watermelons, and melons.
- Solanums (suh·lay·nuhm) are more important to move than others. These include: potato, tomato, eggplant, and several types of nightshade.
- Lastly, Alternate heavy and light feeders – Heavy feeders, like corn, tomatoes, and cucumbers, need a lot of nitrogen. To rest the soil, plant light feeders, like carrots, potatoes, and onions, in the following years.
By ensuring that plants have adequate space, access to sunlight, water, and nutrients, you’ll help your garden thrive and produce healthier, more abundant crops.
FACTOR #7: Lack of Proper Pollination![]()
Some plants rely on insects or the wind for pollination. If you don’t have enough pollinators in your area, your crops might not produce fruit or seeds. Attracting bees and butterflies can help with this issue.
Here are several examples of garden vegetables that require pollination to grow:
- Squash (Zucchini, Butternut, etc.) – These plants typically have separate male and female flowers, and bees or other pollinators are needed to transfer pollen from the male to the female flower.
- Cucumbers – Like squash, cucumbers have separate male and female flowers and rely on pollinators to fertilize the female flowers for fruit development.
- Pumpkins – Pumpkins, like other members of the cucurbit family, need pollination by insects to produce fruit.
- Melons (Watermelon, Cantaloupe, etc.) – These fruits also require pollinators to transfer pollen from male to female flowers for successful fruit production.
- Tomatoes (in some cases) – While some tomato varieties are self-pollinating, they still benefit from insect activity, which can help ensure better fruit set.
- Peppers – Similar to tomatoes, peppers are often self-pollinating, but they can produce better yields with some assistance from pollinators like bees.
- Eggplants – Eggplants are primarily self-pollinating but can benefit from insect pollination for improved fruit set.
Pollinators such as bees, butterflies, and even the wind can play a significant role in ensuring that these vegetables produce healthy crops.
If you’re facing poor pollination in your garden, there are several strategies you can use to improve the situation:
- Attract Pollinators
- Plant Pollinator-Friendly Flowers: Include a variety of flowers that attract bees, butterflies, and other pollinators. Popular choices include lavender, sunflowers, zinnias, and wildflowers. A diverse array of plants will encourage a wider range of pollinators.
- Create a Pollinator Habitat: Provide shelter, water, and food sources to attract pollinators. A small water feature, like a birdbath, and areas for nesting, such as a bee hotel, can help.
- Avoid Pesticides: Many pesticides harm pollinators like bees and butterflies. Use organic pest control methods or apply chemicals at times when pollinators are not active (early morning or late evening).
- Try Hand Pollination
If natural pollination is insufficient, hand pollination is a great solution. Use a small paintbrush, cotton swab, or even your finger to transfer pollen from one flower to another. This is particularly useful for plants like tomatoes, cucumbers, and squash that rely on insect pollination.
- Increase Plant Density
Ensure that your garden has enough of the same type of plant which is usually a minimum of 2. Some plants, especially those that rely on cross-pollination, may need a higher density to improve the chances of pollen transfer.
- Improve Plant Health
Healthy plants are more likely to produce flowers that attract pollinators. Ensure that your plants receive the right balance of nutrients, water, and sunlight to encourage flowering.
- Use Companion Planting
Certain plants attract pollinators or enhance pollination for other plants. For example, planting herbs like basil or dill alongside vegetables like tomatoes can attract pollinators to both.
- Ensure Proper Timing of Planting
Make sure you plant your crops at the right time to coincide with the peak of pollinator activity in your area. Check local gardening guides for the best planting times and be mindful of your local climate and pollinator seasons.
- Consider Pollinator Varieties
Some plant varieties are specifically bred to attract more pollinators. For instance, choosing plants with more vibrant, fragrant flowers like beans and peas – or plants known to produce abundant nectar may help increase pollination rates.
- Install a Bee-Friendly Garden
In addition to flowers, provide specific plants that are highly attractive to bees, such as clover, borage or thyme. These plants can act as “pollinator magnets” for your garden.
By implementing these strategies, you can help ensure that your plants get the proper pollination they need for a successful harvest.
FACTOR #6: Incorrect Planting Times![]()
Planting at the wrong time of year can result in poor growth. Each plant has specific temperature and seasonal requirements. Ensure you’re planting at the optimal time for your region and the crops you’re growing.
The best planting time for garden plants depends on the type of plant and the growing conditions in your region. Here’s a breakdown of common garden plants and their ideal planting times for gardens in Zone 5:
Early Spring (March – April)
- Peas – Peas thrive in cool weather and can be planted as soon as the soil can be worked. Plant them in early spring for a late spring to early summer harvest.
- Spinach – A cold-hardy leafy green that can be planted in early spring for an early summer harvest.
- Lettuce – Like spinach, lettuce prefers cooler temperatures and can be started early in spring.
- Radishes – Radishes grow quickly and can be planted as soon as the ground can be worked in early spring.
- Carrots – Carrots can be planted early, but they prefer cooler soil, so they should be sown as soon as the soil is workable in spring.
Late Spring (May)
- Beans – Beans thrive in warm weather and should be planted after the soil has warmed up in late spring.
- Cucumbers – Cucumbers also prefer warmth, so planting them after the last frost in late spring ensures good growth.
- Sweet Corn – Corn is best planted when soil temperatures are consistently above 60°F, typically in early to mid-summer.
- Zucchini & Summer Squash – These plants are heat-loving and should be planted once the soil is warm in early summer.
- Tomatoes – Wait until the danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed up to plant tomatoes in late spring (around May, depending on your climate).
- Peppers – Like tomatoes, peppers require warm soil and should be planted after the last frost in late spring.
- Asparagus – Can be planted in early spring and will return year after year.
Summer (June)
- Melons (Watermelon, Cantaloupe) – These plants need plenty of warmth and sunlight, making summer the best time to plant them.
- Okra – A heat-loving plant, okra grows well in summer when the weather is hot.
- Basil – Basil thrives in summer heat and should be planted after the last frost.
- Beets – Plant beets in late summer for a fall crop, as they prefer cooler temperatures.
- Eggplant – Eggplants are a warm-season crop that can’t tolerate frost or freezing temperatures.
General Tips for Planting Times
- Frost Dates: Always check your region’s average last frost date in spring and first frost date in fall. This will guide you on when to plant frost-sensitive plants. In Zone 5 the wise old saying is “Don’t plant until Mother’s Day.”
- Soil Temperature: Certain plants, like tomatoes and peppers, require warmer soil to thrive. For these, wait until the soil is consistently warm before planting. Keep in mind that just because the air temperature has gone above 60 degrees, the soil temperature takes several days of those consistent warmer temperatures to rise to the point where planting is recommended.
- Succession Planting: For crops like lettuce, spinach, and beans, consider succession planting to extend your harvest. This involves planting in intervals (every 2-3 weeks) throughout the season.
By timing your plantings with the right season and weather conditions, you’ll set your garden up for success and enjoy a bountiful harvest!
FACTOR #5: Pests and Diseases![]()
Insects, rodents, and diseases can destroy crops before they have a chance to grow. Keep an eye out for signs of pests or disease and take action quickly with organic or chemical treatments as needed.
Organic pest control for vegetable gardens focuses on using natural, non-toxic methods to manage pests while promoting a healthy ecosystem. Here are some effective organic pest control strategies to protect your vegetable garden:
- Be Sure You Have Healthy Soil –
Too many gardens start out with soil that is not ideal for growing food. We’ll look at this issue more in a moment. Maybe it’s because we’re in a hurry to get growing – or we just don’t know any better, regardless – we just go ahead and plant anyway without giving adequate consideration to the dirt we’ll be planting in. In either case you could be asking your soil to produce nutrient-dense food from nutrient-deficient soil. This will always result in a poor performing garden and problems with both pests and diseases. Again, more about quality soil in a moment.
- Companion Planting
Companion planting involves growing specific plants together that can help repel pests, attract beneficial insects, or enhance plant growth. Here are some useful combinations:
- Basil with tomatoes: Repels mosquitoes and aphids while enhancing tomato flavor.
- Marigolds: Their strong scent can deter aphids, nematodes, and whiteflies.
- Garlic and chives: These plants can repel aphids, spider mites, and other pests.
- Nasturtiums: Attract aphids away from other plants and deter whiteflies.
You can tell if insects have invaded your garden in Illinois by looking for signs of damage to your plants, finding insect eggs or larvae, or seeing live or dead insects.
Signs of damage to your plants:
- Holes in leaves: Leaves may have holes or ragged chunks missing
- Sunken spots: Apples may have sunken, brown spots
- Speckled foliage: Leaves may have a speckled appearance
- Skeletonized leaves: Leaves may look like they’ve been eaten away
Signs of insect eggs or larvae:
- Dark, damp places: Insects often lay their eggs in dark, damp places
- Small grubs: You might find small grubs around the roots of container plants
Signs of live or dead insects
- Beetles, caterpillars, earwigs, or slugs: These insects may be eating your plants, leaving behind holes or ragged chunks of leaves
- Tiny, white insects: You might see tiny, white insects flying around your tomato plants
- For pests try Neem Oil
- What it is: Neem oil is a natural pesticide effective against a wide range of insects, including aphids, caterpillars, mealybugs, whiteflies, and scale. It can also control fungal diseases such as powdery mildew and rust.
- How to use it: Mix according to the package instructions and spray directly on affected plants, ensuring you cover both the tops and undersides of the leaves. It’s best used in the evening to avoid harming beneficial insects.
- Another Organic Option to deal with pests is Diatomaceous Earth (DE)
- What it is: A fine, powdery substance made from the fossilized remains of aquatic organisms. In the garden, diatomaceous earth is primarily used as a natural pest control method, effectively targeting soft-bodied insects like slugs, snails, aphids, earwigs, and other crawling pests by disrupting their exoskeletons with its microscopic sharp edges, causing them to dehydrate and die; it is considered a safe and environmentally friendly option when used correctly.
- How to use it: Sprinkle a thin layer of food-grade DE around the base of plants, focusing on areas where pests are active. Be careful not to disturb pollinators and beneficial insects.
- 5. Purchase and Introduce Beneficial Insects
What they do: Introduce insects that prey on harmful pests. For example:
- Ladybugs: Eat aphids, scales, and mites.
- Lacewing larvae: Consume aphids, thrips, and caterpillars.
- Parasitic wasps: Target pests like aphids, caterpillars, and whiteflies.
How to use them: Purchase these beneficial insects from garden centers or online and follow the directions for introduction into your garden. You can also encourage more beneficial insects by planting plants that attract them, such as dill, cilantro, and fennel.
- Add Floating Row Covers
What it is: A lightweight, breathable fabric that you drape over plants to protect them from pests like cabbage worms, flea beetles, and carrot flies.
How to use it: Place the row cover directly over the plants and secure the edges with soil or stakes. It prevents insects from laying eggs on your plants while allowing light and water to pass through.
- Homemade Pesticides like Garlic and Hot Pepper Spray
What it is: A homemade repellent made from garlic, hot peppers, and water. It deters pests like aphids, caterpillars, and spider mites.
How to make it:
- Blend 2 garlic cloves and 1 hot pepper with 1 quart of water.
- Strain the mixture, add a few drops of dish soap, and spray directly on pest-infested areas.
How to use it: Apply the spray early in the morning or late in the evening to avoid harming beneficial insects.
- Hand-Picking
What it is: Physically removing pests from plants.
How to do it: Inspect plants regularly for pests such as slugs, snails, and caterpillars. Remove pests by hand, placing them in soapy water to kill them. This method is labor-intensive but effective for small infestations.
- Add an Organic Mulch
What it is: Organic mulch (e.g., straw, wood chips, or compost) can create a physical barrier that helps keep pests like slugs, snails, and weeds away from your plants.
Wood mulches made from cedar or cypress wood are a good choice for those who are looking for a type of mulch that will look nice and repel unwanted insects. The natural oils contained in cypress and cedar blends of mulch give off a strong odor that will deter most bugs from coming near. Rubber mulch or cheap, dyed wood mulch are not recommended for the garden.
How to use it: Apply a 2-3 inch layer of mulch around plants, ensuring it doesn’t touch the plant stems. It can also help retain soil moisture and improve soil quality.
- Rotate Your Crops
What it is: Crop Rotation is the practice of changing the location of your crops each season to prevent pests from becoming established in the soil.
How to use it: Rotate crops such as tomatoes, peppers, and beans with non-related crops like lettuce or carrots. This tends to disrupt pest life cycles and helps prevent soil-borne diseases.
- Try Organic Pest-Repellent Plants
What they do: Some plants naturally repel pests due to their strong scents or chemicals they release. Consider planting the following around your vegetable garden:
- Mint: Deters ants, aphids, and cabbage moths.
- Chrysanthemums: Repel aphids, ticks, and fleas.
- Lavender: Deters moths, fleas, and mosquitoes.
- Make up your own Solution
Vinegar and Water: A simple solution of vinegar and water can deter pests like ants, slugs, and aphids.
How to use it: Mix equal parts white vinegar and water in a spray bottle and apply to the affected areas. Avoid using this on edible parts of the plants, as vinegar can burn foliage.
Soap and Water Solution for Aphids: A mixture of mild soap and water that suffocates aphids and other soft-bodied insects.
How to use it: Castile soap is a natural, biodegradable soap made from vegetable oils and alkali. It’s a versatile cleaner that can be used on your body, hair, clothes, around the house and, in the garden.
Mix 1 tablespoon of mild liquid soap in a quart of water and spray it directly on the affected plants. Ensure the solution doesn’t get on beneficial insects or flowers.
- Follow Sound Cultural Practices
In other words – Adopting good gardening practices that minimize pest problems.
Like:
- Water plants in the morning: This reduces moisture that attracts pests like slugs and fungal diseases.
- Prune damaged leaves: Removing affected leaves can help reduce pest hiding spots and stop the spread of pests and diseases.
- Clean up fallen fruit or plant debris: Decomposing plants attract pests like rodents and insects.
- If you have several beds, create a pathway between the beds. This will not only reduce some of the pest migration between plants, but also give you plenty of room to plant, weed, harvest your crops – and to move wheelbarrows and garden carts around with ease. Garden pathways should be made of stone because they are highly durable, aesthetically pleasing, low maintenance, and can last for many years with minimal upkeep, providing a timeless and natural look to your garden while withstanding heavy foot traffic; essentially offering both practicality and visual appeal.
FACTOR #4: Improper Sunlight![]()
Most plants need at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight each day. Gardens in shaded areas or those that aren’t getting enough sun can see poor crop yields. Make sure your plants are in the right spots for the optimal sunlight required.
Full Sun: Tomatoes, sweet peppers, cucumbers, zucchini, musk melons and eggplants
Part Shade: Leafy greens are among the best vegetables to grow in the shade because they tend to thrive in cooler, shaded conditions.
- Spinach: Grows well in partial shade, especially in the summer heat. It prefers cooler temperatures and can bolt (go to seed) if exposed to too much heat.
- Lettuce: Most lettuce varieties (especially loose-leaf types) do well in the shade, as they can tolerate cooler, shadier spots without bolting too early.
- Kale: Tolerates partial shade and is quite hardy. It can grow well in cooler, shadier spots and will be less likely to bolt (which means it’s refocusing its energy on producing flowers and seeds rather than leaves) compared to in full sun.
- Swiss Chard: It can tolerate some shade, and while it prefers full sun, it will still produce well in less sunny areas.
- Mustard Greens: These greens can tolerate partial shade and often produce better leaves in cooler, shaded environments.
Herbs
Some herbs can also thrive in partial shade areas, especially if they are not overly shaded for the entire day.
- Mint: Mint is an excellent choice for shady areas and will grow vigorously in cooler, moist environments.
- Cilantro: It prefers cooler temperatures and does well in partial shade, especially in the summer months to prevent bolting.
- Parsley: Parsley can tolerate some shade and may actually produce better in cooler, shaded conditions compared to full sun.
- Chives: Chives are shade-tolerant and grow well in areas with partial sun, making them ideal for shadier parts of your garden.
Peas, broccoli and cauliflower will also tolerate part-shade conditions.
- Root veggies grow underground – nut that doesn’t mean that they don’t require sunlight. Many root vegetables can grow well in partial shade since their underground parts don’t require as much sunlight.
- Radishes: Radishes grow quickly and can tolerate partial shade, especially in the warmer months when they may appreciate some relief from direct sun.
- Carrots: Carrots can tolerate light shade and still produce good roots, especially when the weather is warm and they need a break from direct sunlight.
- Beets: Beets grow well in partial shade, particularly when grown for their leafy tops. In shadier spots, you may have slightly smaller beet roots, but the greens will thrive.
- Turnips: Like beets, turnips grow well in partial shade, and the cooler temperatures can help prevent them from becoming too fibrous.
FACTOR #3: Inadequate Watering![Boy watering plants]()
Both overwatering and underwatering can harm plants. Too much water can lead to root rot, while too little can cause dehydration and poor growth. Consistent, deep watering is key, depending on your plant’s needs.
Ensuring the right amount of water for your garden is crucial for healthy plant growth. Here are some effective ways to manage watering and avoid both overwatering and underwatering:
- Understand Plant Needs: Different plants have different water requirements. Research the specific needs of the plants you’re growing. Some plants, like succulents, require less water, while others, like leafy greens, need more consistent moisture.
- Water Deeply, Not Frequently: Rather than shallow, frequent watering, aim to water deeply and less often. This encourages roots to grow deeper into the soil, making plants more drought-resistant. A good rule of thumb is to water 1-2 inches deep per week, adjusting based on weather conditions.
- Use Drip Irrigation: Drip irrigation systems deliver water directly to the roots of plants, reducing water wastage and minimizing evaporation. This method also helps prevent fungal diseases caused by wet foliage, as the water stays at soil level.
- Mulch the Soil: Applying a layer of mulch around your plants helps retain moisture in the soil by reducing evaporation. It also keeps the soil temperature stable and prevents weeds, which can compete for water.
- Water in the Morning: Watering early in the morning allows plants to absorb moisture before the heat of the day, reducing evaporation. It also gives plants time to dry off before nightfall, helping to prevent fungus and disease.
- Check Soil Moisture Regularly: Before watering, check the soil’s moisture level by sticking your finger into the ground or using a moisture meter. Water only when the top 1-2 inches of soil are dry. This prevents both overwatering and underwatering.
- Use Soaker Hoses: Soaker hoses are porous hoses that release water slowly along their length, ensuring even watering across garden beds. They are especially useful for long rows or large planting areas.
- Create Watering Zones: If your garden has plants with varying water needs, consider creating watering zones. Use different methods like drip irrigation for water-loving plants and a more basic watering system for drought-tolerant plants.
- Consider Rain Barrels: If you live in an area with limited water access or want to conserve water, setting up rain barrels to collect runoff from your roof can provide a sustainable watering option for your garden.
- Monitor Weather Conditions: Adjust your watering schedule based on the weather. If it’s been raining or there’s a forecast for rain, you can skip watering for a few days. Conversely, during hot, dry spells, your plants may need extra water.
By paying attention to these methods and adjusting as needed, you can ensure your garden receives the right amount of water to thrive.
FACTOR #2: Poor Soil Quality
Garden soil that lacks essential nutrients, has poor drainage, or is too compacted can stunt plant growth and give you poor results. Regularly testing of your soil and amending it with compost, sand or organic matter can improve its fertility and structure. However, where your soil originally came from may also impact its quality – and, if that quality is poor – so will be your garden’s performance.
We tell customers that there are 5 types of dirt: Fill Dirt, Clay, Black dirt, Topsoil and Organic Soil. Each has its proper use but really only one of these is best for the veggie garden. If your garden’s soil came from your yard or lawn (ie. native soil) it’s probably not the best choice for your garden – “As Is”. Let’s take a quick look at each of these dirt types:
Fill Dirt:
Homes and neighborhoods that were built as part of a larger development nearly always have native soil issues. The reason is that the topsoil and black dirt that may have covered the development originally is scraped off to facilitate the building process – from the forms, foundations, to the manpower and machines, construction requires a solid earthen base. That being said, a final layer of the topsoil is usually later re-introduced onto the parcel once construction has been completed. This soil is designed to facilitate the planting of grass or the laying of sod for the lawn. However, this layer is generally no more than 1-2 inches deep! Underneath is almost always that native fill dirt and clay – and neither are acceptable options for a healthy garden.
- Nutritional Value: Fill dirt is generally soil that has been excavated from construction or landscaping projects. It often lacks organic matter and essential nutrients and can be low in quality. Fill dirt would require heavy amending with compost, fertilizers, and other organic matter to become suitable for growing vegetables.
- Best for: Filling in the hole created when underground utility lines are run, backfilling a void left by the removal of a large tree or in-ground pool; raising the landscape grade; or creating a landscape berm. Again, Fill Dirt is not ideal for vegetable gardening unless heavily amended with organic matter.
- If your native soil looks like this, your garden will underperform.
Clay:
Nutritional Value: Clay soil can be rich in minerals, but it has poor drainage and can become compacted easily. It almost always needs to be amended with organic matter (compost or sand) to improve its structure, drainage, and nutrient availability for vegetables.
- Best for: Clay compacts well and is often used around construction sites, to create a base for buildings or as the bottom of storm water retention ponds. Clay soil can be challenging for many vegetables due to its tendency to retain too much water, become compacted which lowers soil porosity, and drains poorly. However, some vegetables can still thrive in clay soil, but only after you amend it with organic matter (like compost) to improve drainage and structure.
- If your native soil looks like this, your garden will underperform.
Black Dirt:
- Nutritional Value: Black dirt often refers to dark, rich, fertile soil, sometimes usually made up of decomposed organic material and chemicals and minerals like nitrogen and iron – which give black dirt it’s dark color. It’s good for growing plants, as it tends to be nutrient-rich, but like topsoil, its exact nutritional content can widely vary.
- Best for: Black dirt is a good base material for both the lawn and the garden – but not in the lumpy, clumpy state as we see it here. Roots will not penetrate these clumps and moisture control is all but impossible. Black dirt like this needs to be broken up – by a pulverizer machine like this . . . . by a roto-tiller like this …….. or manually using your hands or simple garden tools. But black dirt is OK for Vegetable gardening, if it’s fairly fine in texture and has a rich dark color, indicating that a good amount of organic matter is present.
- If your native soil looks like this, you’ve got a good starting point.
Topsoil:
- Nutritional Value: Topsoil is the uppermost layer of soil, which can be fertile and nutrient-rich if it’s from a healthy environment. It can vary in
quality depending on where it’s sourced. If topsoil is mixed with organic matter, it can be very beneficial for vegetable plants.
- Best for: General gardening, especially when combined with compost or organic matter to boost nutrient content.
- If your native soil looks like this, you’re almost there.
While we’re discussing types of dirt, let’s address types of Sand:
In our opinion, sand is not optional but necessary in garden soil. Sand improves drainage and aeration by creating air pockets between soil particles. We refer to this as improved “soil porosity”. Porosity reduces soil compaction and increases the space between soil particles thus enabling water, air and nutrients to flow more freely through the soil. Sand also greatly improves “tillage” or- the ability to work with and in the soil. We recommend “fine sand” for any in the ground garden – or for use in the lawn as fine sand helps retain moisture. And our recommendation for any type of garden bed raised above the ground is “coarse sand” since it aids in moisture control and prevents waterlogging.
Organic Soil:
If your native soil looks like this, you’re good to go and good to grow!
What most people are looking for when they want “organic soil” is soil without added chemical herbicides, pesticides or fertilizers.
- Nutritional Value: Organic soil is rich in organic matter (compost, decomposed plant material, and animal waste). It provides a high level of nutrients, improves soil structure, increases water retention, and promotes beneficial microbial activity, which supports healthy plant growth.
- Best for: Vegetables and plants in need of fertile, nutrient-rich soil. Organic soil typically has a well-balanced mix of macro- and micro-nutrients.
True, natural organic soil can be difficult to source. The easiest way to get organic soil for your garden is to have it “made” – using natural building blocks like topsoil, compost and sand. Keep in mind that to take dirt from good to better – it needs amendments like compost and sand. But in order to take dirt from good to better to best it must be “blended” not just “mixed”. Which is exactly what we do here at Tim Wallace Soil Mix Supply.
Remember – your garden’s soil is the most important part of your garden – and the second most likely reason your garden is poorly producing and underperforming. As we’ve just explained – all dirt is not created equal and therefore all dirt is not fit for a healthy, productive garden. When you start with good soil – you will see good results.
FACTOR #1: Nutrient Deficiency
Garden soil will become nutrient-deficient over time. It’s not a question of “if” but “when”. This typically occurs when the soil’s nutrient reserves are depleted due to one or more factors such as plant growth, leaching, or insufficient replenishment of nutrients. The rate at which soil becomes nutrient-deficient depends on several factors – and how quickly that deficiency happens may just surprise you:
- Plant Growth
- Nutrient Uptake: Plants take up nutrients from the soil for growth, flowers, fruit, and seeds. Over time, if plants are regularly harvested or left to grow without replenishing the soil, these nutrients will become depleted.
- Crop Type: Different plants require different nutrients, and some crops (like heavy feeders, such as tomatoes, corn, or squash) can deplete the soil faster than others (like legumes – beans, peas, lentils, that fix nitrogen).
- Soil Type
- Loam or Clay Soil: Loam soils that are made up of a combination of topsoil, sand and compost tend to hold nutrients better than overly sandy soils. Overly sandy soils, while they drain well, leach nutrients more easily. Clay soil will retain both water and nutrients but they will become waterlogged and compacted, which will adversely affect plant root growth and nutrient uptake.
- Soil pH: The pH of the soil also affects nutrient availability. For example, acidic soils can lock up essential nutrients like calcium and magnesium, making them unavailable to plants. Examples include –
- Tomatoes: Calcium is crucial for strong cell walls, and calcium deficiency can lead to blossom-end rot (a condition where the bottom of the tomato fruit becomes dark and sunken). Proper calcium levels help prevent this disorder.
- Peppers: Like tomatoes, peppers also require calcium to maintain healthy cell structure. Low calcium often results in blossom-end rot and poor fruit development.
- Leaching
- Rainfall and Irrigation: Excessive rainfall or irrigation can wash away water-soluble nutrients (such as nitrogen, potassium, and calcium) from the soil. This process, known as leaching, can cause the soil to become nutrient deficient over time, particularly in sandy soils, or in areas that have been overwatered or experienced heavy rainfall.
- Lack of Organic Matter and Fertilization
- Decomposing Plant Matter: Organic matter, such as compost or mulch, helps improve the soil’s nutrient content. Without adding organic material or compost, the soil can lose nutrients over time, leading to deficiencies.
- Infrequent Fertilization: Without regular fertilization or soil amendment, the nutrients that are consumed by plants will not be replaced, leading to nutrient deficiency. Remember our rule when it comes to fertilizers: organic soil requires organic fertilizers.
Chemical fertilizers like those that contain urea, ammonium nitrate, triple superphosphate, potassium chloride, or most synthetic nitrogen sources can disrupt soil microbial balance, contribute to nutrient leaching and harm beneficial organisms in the soil making it less healthy for plants in the long run. Key points about these harmful chemicals:
- High salt content: Many chemical fertilizers have high salt concentrations which can damage soil structure and inhibit plant root development.
- Nutrient imbalance: Chemical fertilizers often provide nutrients in ratios that are not ideal for plants, leading to imbalances and potential deficiencies.
- Environmental impact: Runoff from chemical fertilizers can pollute water sources and contribute to algal blooms.
Time Frame for Nutrient Deficiency
The time it takes for garden soil to become nutrient-deficient varies widely depending on these factors, but generally, nutrient depletion can begin to occur within a few months to a year if plants are not replenishing the soil with compost or fertilizers. For example:
- Annual crops like vegetables may deplete the soil’s nutrients within a single growing season!
- Perennial plants like in your landscape or planting beds might show signs of nutrient deficiency over 1–3 years without replenishment.
Symptoms of Nutrient Deficiency
Here’s what to look for:
- Yellowing leaves: This is often a sign of nitrogen deficiency.
- Poor growth: Can indicate a lack of phosphorus or potassium.
- Brown spots on leaves: May indicate calcium or magnesium deficiency.
Knowing is always better than guessing
- Test Your Soil: Before choosing an organic fertilizer, it’s wise to test your soil to see what nutrients it might be lacking. This ensures you’re adding the right type and right amount of fertilizer. Just be sure to collect samples from various spots in your garden.
There are a few ways that soil testing can be done:
- Soil Testing Kits: You can buy a DIY soil test kit at a garden center or online. These kits typically measure key nutrients like nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), potassium (K), and soil pH. Some kits also test for micro-nutrients.
- Professional Soil Testing Labs: For a more detailed and accurate analysis, you can send your soil sample to a professional soil testing service. Local agricultural extensions or universities often offer soil testing services for a fee. These labs provide comprehensive nutrient analysis, including specific recommendations for fertilizer and amendments.
With either method , use the test results to address nutrient deficiencies and if needed, adjust the soil pH accordingly.
To help prevent nutrient deficiencies, it’s important to:
- Rotate crops.
- Or, consider growing nitrogen-fixing plants (like peas, beans and lentils) to naturally restore nitrogen in the soil.
- Fertilize as needed, based on soil testing to determine nutrient levels. Remember – organic soil = organic fertilizers. Organic compost contains beneficial chemicals like nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium (the primary nutrients for plants), as well as trace amounts of other essential elements like calcium, magnesium, iron, and zinc, making it a natural source of nutrients for soil and plants without harmful synthetic chemicals.
We prefer to not only work compost into the garden soil but also to mulch around all of the plants with compost rather than wood chips.
- Over-Fertilizing: Too much fertilizer, even organic, can harm plants. Follow the recommended application rates to avoid nutrient imbalances. And in case your wondering, its best to not grow your plants in straight compost as you run the risk of burning the roots of your plants as the compost heats up during its natural decomposition. Simply mix your compost of choice with good quality topsoil. Our recommendation is no more than 50% compost to soil, 25% if you’re using peat.
- Keep in Mind: Organic fertilizers often release nutrients slowly, improving long-term soil health without the risk of burning plants. However, it may take longer to see immediate effects.
When is the best time to amend your soil?
So when it comes to amending your garden soil – the best time to overall amend your garden’s soil in the fall because it gives the amendments ample time to break down and integrate into the soil over winter, ensuring your plants have access to the nutrients when spring arrives, while also allowing for easier access to your garden beds with fewer active plants and more manageable weather conditions.
Doing this is important even if you’ve started with good soil in the Spring. Remember, you not only harvested veggies throughout the growing season but also the nutrients within the soil that they were grown in. Add fresh organic matter every fall to start every spring on a good note.
Summary:
So that’s our Top 10 Factors why your garden has poor performance and poor production. Remember, even if you’re starting a new garden this year, these 10 factors are things you can watch out for and get in the way of ensuring you too have a good harvest – the first year and every year.
One easy way to ensure that your garden performs at its best is to not only incorporate the advice just given, but also to use the best possible soil and soil amendments. And for that, look no farther than Tim Wallace Soil Mix Supply. For more than 40 years we’ve been the industry leader in specialty soil blends for the lawn and garden. Whether it’s topsoil, sand or one of our many compost options, we use only the highest quality materials – screened and kept dry and then uniquely blended on-site for a fresh, fluffy and easy to work with product that has all the traits, nutrients and characteristics of the very best garden soils. All you’ll need to do is get it in the garden and start planting. When you want the “Best Mix for the Best Result” it’s Tim Wallace Soil Mix Supply. Give us a call today!